Muhammad Ali Sadpara – The Legend of Pakistan’s High Peaks
The Legend of Pakistan’s High Peaks Ali Sadpara, Pakistan’s most celebrated mountaineer, was a man who lived and breathed the mountains. Born in 1976 in the remote village of Sadpara, Skardu, he grew up surrounded by the towering peaks of the Karakoram. With limited resources but an unshakable spirit, he carved his name in history by conquering eight of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, including Nanga Parbat, K2, Broad Peak, and Manaslu. His sheer determination, deep love for the mountains, and legendary strength made him an inspiration to climbers worldwide.
The Legend of Pakistan’s High Peaks
Early Life and Struggles
The Legend of Pakistan’s High Peaks Ali Sadpara hailed from a humble background in the rugged Baltistan region. Like many children in the mountains, he spent his early years herding livestock and trekking across rough terrains. His first real exposure to mountaineering came when he worked as a high-altitude porter for foreign expeditions. Unlike most porters, Ali saw climbing as more than just a job—it was his calling. With no formal training, he learned from experience, perfecting his skills with every expedition. His natural talent, endurance, and passion set him apart, earning him the respect of the global climbing community.
The Historic Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat (2016)
The Legend of Pakistan’s High Peaks Ali Sadpara’s most legendary achievement came on February 26, 2016, when he, along with Simone Moro (Italy) and Alex Txikon (Spain), became the first climbers to successfully summit Nanga Parbat (8,126m) in winter. This feat was considered impossible due to the mountain’s brutal cold, fierce winds, and high avalanche risk. Nanga Parbat had defeated more than 30 previous winter attempts, but Sadpara’s grit and high-altitude expertise made history. His unmatched endurance and deep connection with the mountains played a crucial role in this record-breaking ascent.
Climbing in temperatures below -50°C, the team braved hurricane-force winds and frostbite-inducing cold. Ali’s role in the expedition was instrumental, as he took charge of rope fixing and route navigation, guiding the team through dangerous icefalls and steep ridges. His deep understanding of high-altitude survival made all the difference in their success.
Conquering Pakistan’s Highest Peaks
Over his career, Ali Sadpara successfully summited eight of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, including:
Nanga Parbat (8,126m) – Winter First Ascent (2016)
K2 (8,611m)
Broad Peak (8,051m)
Gasherbrum I (8,080m) & Gasherbrum II (8,035m)
Manaslu (8,163m)
Lhotse (8,516m)
Makalu (8,485m)
His ability to climb without supplemental oxygen in extreme conditions made him one of the toughest climbers of his time.
K2 and the Tragic Disappearance (2021)
In January 2021, The Legend of Pakistan’s High Peaks Ali Sadpara set out to achieve another historic feat—the first winter ascent of K2, the world’s second-highest and one of the deadliest peaks. Alongside John Snorri (Iceland) and Juan Pablo Mohr (Chile), he pushed through extreme weather and freezing temperatures, aiming to etch his name in history once more. The team was last seen near the Bottleneck (8,200m) on February 5, 2021, attempting their final summit push. Tragically, they never returned.
Rescue operations were launched, with the Pakistan Army deploying helicopters for aerial searches, but the harsh winter conditions made recovery efforts nearly impossible. Months later, in July 2021, their bodies were found on the mountain, marking the end of an era for Pakistani mountaineering. Ali Sadpara had given his life to the mountains he loved.
Legacy of a National Hero
The Legend of Pakistan’s High Peaks Ali Sadpara’s legacy is one of courage, resilience, and pure passion for the mountains. He was more than just a climber—he was a symbol of determination and national pride. His son, Sajid Sadpara, continues his father’s dream, advocating for mountaineering safety and keeping his father’s memory alive.
To honor his contributions, Pakistan has renamed Skardu Airport as ‘Ali Sadpara Airport’, and documentaries celebrating his life and achievements continue to inspire future generations.
The Legend of Pakistan’s High Peaks Ali Sadpara will forever be remembered as Pakistan’s greatest mountaineering hero—a man who lived and died chasing the sky.